Luberon & Vaucluse
Higher mountainous area, east of Cavaillon, immortalised by writer Peter Mayle among more significant others… and the best area for lavender.
Villages of the Luberon & Vaucluse In the lower Vaucluse, the most interesting and picturesque towns & villages in this area include Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (see opposite), Fontaine-la-Vaucluse, Gordes and Roussillon.
Highlights include: Fontaine la Vaucluse (source of the River Sorgue and the largest natural spring in France with an annual flow of 630 million cubic metres; son et lumiére shows in summer); Abbaye de Senanque (Cistercian monastery north of Gordes); Musée de la Lavande (lavender museum near Coustellet), Colorado de Rustrel (huge ochre quarry); the Boriés (drystone huts of which there are about 3,000 on the slopes of the Luberon and Vaucluse plateau). Further south in the western - or Petit – Luberon: Oppéde-le-Vieux, Lacoste, Ménerbes, Bonnieux, Lourmarin etc
Durance valley); Château du Marquis de Sade (allegedly being restored by designer Pierre Cardin); Abbaye de St-Hilaire (13th - 18thC Carmelite abbey); Abbaye Silvacane on the Durance’s south bank; and the Gorges du Régalon to the north-west. Beyond to the east is the Grand Luberon, which stretches from Apt to Manosque. The highest point is Mourre Négres, with impressive 360 degree views.
Hot Air Ballooning over the Lavender Fields Winding up and down to the different mountain villages means a lot of driving. One great way to see the Luberon is from a hot air balloon from Joucas – especially spectacular late June which is lavender season.
Lunch
You’ve driven all that way, so you may as well treat yourself: Mas des Herbes Blanches (04 90 05 79 79; www.herbesblanches.com) rte Murs, 2.5 km outside Joucas and Auberge La Feniére (04 90 68 11 79), rte de Cadenet, 2 km south of Lourmarin (by D943) both boast gourmet restaurants with wonderful views from their respective terraces. La Feniére also has an informal bistro La Cour de Ferme where cooking centres around the fireplace and spit. Take your swimmers: both places have a garden and pool which they are generally happy to share with lunch guests.
Le Fournil (04 90 75 83 62), place Carnot, Bonnieux in an old boulangerie carved into the hillside is also charming and offers good value for money. Lunch is only served two days a week though so be sure to book in advance (on the pretty terrace weather permitting).
Market Days: Gordes (Tues); Lacoste (Tues); Fontaine-de-Vaucluse (Tues); Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (Thurs, Sun); Roussillon (Thurs); Bonnieux (Fri); Lourmarin (Fri); Pertuis (Fri); Ménerbes (Sat); Oppéde (Sat); Pernes-les-Fontaines (Sat); Manosque (Sat); Sorgues (Sun)