Camargue
The wild, marshland area of the Camargue is famous for its rich wildlife, including the distinctive white horses, bulls, flamingoes, and a wide variety of birds. The best views are around the Etang de Vaccarés, Palissade and the sea wall, especially at sunrise and sunset when the light is stunning.
Explore the area by foot, horseback, mountain bike, jeep, boat or canoe. For authenticity’s sake, we recommend you see the area from the back of a Camarguais horse, but if horseriding doesn’t appeal, cycling and walking are also fun.
A good base (especially for families) is the Domaine de Méjanes – a cultural centre with a small electric train which runs along the Etang de Vaccarés (an inland seawater lake), which both adults and children can enjoy.
From this base you can also walk the 2.5 km trail along the lake, hire bikes, do horse riding and pony trekking, or join a jeep safari.
At certain times of the year you can also see course camarguaise in the bullring here (more like ‘bull games’ than ‘bull fights’).
There are two restaurants: the nicer one is the Mazet du Vaccarés which is set apart beside the water.
Domaine de Méjanes: 04 90 97 10 10; www.mejanes.camargue.fr
Arénes Méjanes for details of course camarguaise & seasonal shows: 04 90 97 10 60
Horseriding at Méjanes: 04 90 97 10 62
Restaurant Mazet du Vaccarés: 04 90 97 10 79; www.mazetduvaccares.camargue.fr
Other Options:
Alternatively you could take part in a private traditional Camargue Day at the Manade Jacques Bon, part of chic 17th century guesthouse Le Mas de Peint near Sambuc – which includes displays of horsemanship, bull branding, a spit roast taureau lunch and the opportunity for horseriding.
The Cabanes de Cacharel, Route de Cacharel is another option for horse riding – a day ride with beach picnic for example costs 75€, a one hour ride 15€ - or join a jeep safari. Contact: 04 90 97 84 10; www.cabanesdecacharel.com
There are also walking trails from the Pont de Gau nature reserve and around La Capeliére (see opposite).
Birdwatching / Wildlife:
Between May and October, there are around 400 species of birds including teal, purple heron, cattle egret. The best areas for birdwatching - and wildlife in general - are La Capeliére, the Domaine de la Palissade, the seawall, and the Pont de Gau bird sanctuary; best times are early morning and dusk.
Pont de Gau nature reserve: created in 1949 this 60 hectare reserve protects the birdlife and their environment with a centre de soins to rehabilitate injured birds; it is also a great place to view birds/animals: the 6km of footpaths are divided into three short circuits around the marshes. Contact: 04 90 97 82 62; www.parcornithologique.com
La Capeliére: in an old mas on the eastern side of the Etang de Vaccarés, La Capeliére is the administrative centre of the Camargue National Reserve which was created in 1975 and covers 130,000 hectares. It is also a nature information centre with permanent exhibitions, a 1.5km nature walk in the marshes and 4 observatories. Contact: 04 90 97 00 97; www.reserve-camargue.org
If you have time, visit the imposing 13th century fortifications of Aigues Mortes, surrounded by marshland and sea.
In peak season, try to avoid visiting the Camargue at a weekend. The traffic on a hot summer Sunday for example – with all the locals heading for the sea – can be really heavy.
Lunch
Plenty of choice in Saintes Maries de la Mer but our own favourites are dotted about the Camargue including the fabulous La Chassagnette (04 90 97 26 96) on the D36 just before Sambuc: this excellent fully organic restaurant alone is worth heading south for.
We also like La Régie de Frigoulés (04 90 97 52 92) at the top of the route de Cacharel which serves simple but good quality good. And Le Mas de Peint (04 90 97 20 62; www.masdepeint.com), a stylish 17th century guest house just beyond Le Sambuc with a highly regarded restaurant.
Market Days: Stes Maries (Mon, Fri); Aigues Mortes (Mon, Tues, Weds, Sun); St Gilles (Thurs, Sun); Le Grau du Roi (Tues, Thurs); St Martin de Crau (Fri) Calendar: lots of festivals throughout the year – the main ones are the relatively new Festival Camargue early May which focuses on wildlife, the Fête Vôtive mid-June, the horse festival in mid-July, the bull festival mid-August, and the big gypsy festivals in May and October.
Camargue tourist info: 5 Av Van Gogh, Stes Maries and bd des Lices, Arles General tourist information: see www.camargue.fr; saintesmaries.com; www.arlestourisme.com