Avignon

Former papal seat famous for its July arts festival: the city stands at the meeting point of the Gard, Vaucluse and Bouches du Rhône regions.

Avignon’s tour de force is the imposing Palais des Papes, the 14th century papal seat. It is bewilderingly large so we recommend getting the information headset (even if you fast forward in places), and allow plenty of time to do it justice. Be sure to have a wander in the Rocher des Doms gardens just beyond (great views over the river and down over the famous Pont d’Avignon - or Pont St Bénézet - immortalised in song. You can pay to walk along the ruins of this bridge - and visit the little museum - but if time is tight the view from the Rocher des Doms is good enough.

Also worthy of a visit is the Musée Calvet, rue Joseph Vernet, a beautifully restored Beaux Arts museum, and our own favourite the Fondation Angladon-Dubrujeaud, rue Laboureur, which features 18th, 19thand 20th century artists: Picasso.

A short hop across the Rhône, satellite city Villeneuve-lés-Avignon proves the theory that “it is all relative”. Located elsewhere, it would probably be a tourist attraction in its own right - were it not dwarfed by Avignon’s greater majesty. If you do venture over to Villeneuve, lunch at popular bistrot Aubertin, rue l’Hôpital will make it worth the effort.

Cinema

If you want to catch a movie during your stay, the Manutention Cinema on rue des Escaliers Ste Anne is one of the most charming and scenically located you could wish for, tucked under the vast walls of the Palais des Papes. With 16 screens there is plenty of choice, but somehow it still maintains the atmosphere of a small arthouse cinema.

Check the movie is marked VO which means ‘version originale’ (ie subtitled, not dubbed).

Lunch

For details: 04 90 82 65 36; www.cinemas-utopia.org; or pick up the free Utopia newspaper in any local tourist office eg St Rémy or Avignon. A personal favourite for an informal meal or drink is the Grand Café next door.

Lunch

For a gastronomic treat the Michelin starred Christian Étienne (04 90 86 16 50) rue Mons – atmospherically located in medieval buildings attached to the Palais des Papes - offers some good value lunch menus starting at 35€. The lovely first floor canopied terrace is perfect for a summer’s lunch. Otherwise Le Moutardier (04 90 85 34 76) in the place du Palais des Papes also has a nice terrace and set lunch menus from 28€. If terrace dining is not an issue we love the intimate and traditional Brunel et Mesclun (04 90 85 24 83) on nearby rue de la Balance. Also La Fourchette (04 90 85 20 93) and L’Isle Sonnante (04 90 82 56 01), both on rue Racine.

Alternatively just wander down rue Joseph Vernet and you will be spoilt for choice: for innovative gastronomic cuisine in a contemporary oriental setting, try the relatively new Les 5 Sens (04 90 85 26 51), place Plaisance, by no 18 rue J Vernet which offers a variety of set menus including a light taster menu with dessert and coffee for just 20€.

Parking: Avignon is a tangle of narrow one way streets: definitely the simplest option is the SNCF station car park, just a couple of mins walk to the city centre. Coming from the south on the N570, turn left onto the main pérépherique just outside the city walls, go through one set of traffic lights and after about 200m, bear left into the ‘Gare SNCF’: short term parking here is more convenient (though a little more expensive). The train station is immediately opposite the Rue de la République leading up to the Palais des Papes. En route you will pass the tourist office.

Market Day: Saturday; covered market throughout the week Avignon Festival: the world-renowned festival runs for 3 - 4 weeks in July For advance bookings (from mid-June): see www.festival-avignon.com; tel 04 90 14 14 14; or visit any FNAC store; for the fringe events, see also www.avignonleoff.com

Avignon tourist info (04 32 74 32 74; www.ot-avignon.fr), pl Jean Jaurés off Rue de la République; 9 - 7 Mon –Fri; 9 – 1, 2 – 7 Sat; 9 – 12 Sun