Arles

Roman city – and a major religious centre in the Middle Ages – best known for its amphitheatre, its bullfighting tradition, and as the region’s rice capital. The city has a strong artistic tradition: its annual International Photography show in July has made it a centre for photography.

Don’t miss the impressive two-tiered Roman amphitheatre – les Arénes – which dates back to 1BC. This amphitheatre is one of the largest and best preserved of its kind, with a seating capacity of over 20,000: originally used to stage chariot races and bloody combats, it is now an arena for bullfighting, concerts and theatre - especially during Arles’ famous easter festival. Climb to the top for great views over the Camargue.

Close by - though in opposite directions - are the Thermes de Constantin, remains of 4thC Roman baths and spa, and the beautiful 12th century Romanesque cathedral and cloisters of the Église St-Trophîme, place de la République.

Also worth a visit is the Fondation Van Gogh (right beside the Arénes) which shows work by contemporary artists in tribute to the great artist, and now also houses La Chambre de Vincent Van Gogh, an exact recreation of his famous bedroom. Keep an eye out for the Yellow House on place Lamartine which he shared with fellow artist Paul Gauguin for an unharmonious period in 1888 & 1889 – and where he was living when he famously sliced his ear lobe. Wander down the café-lined Boulevard des Lices, stop for a drink at the Café du Forum immortalised by Van Gogh in his painting. Follow the self-guide Van Gogh tour round the city if you have time – children love looking out for the arrows!

Lunch

La Charcuterie (Bouchon Lyonnais) (04 90 96 56 96), rue des Arénes – this is effectively a few tables in a butcher’s shop near the place Forum. Don’t be put off: a great place for hearty unpretentious lyonnais food, but no place for vegetarians. We also like Le Pistou (04 90 18 20 92) on rond point des Arénes, for good traditional food in an informal setting. And Cuisine de Comptoir (04 90 96 86 28) rue de la Liberté for good value tartines and light, fresh contemporary food.

Check the movie is marked VO which means ‘version originale’ (ie subtitled, not dubbed).

Lunch

For details: 04 90 82 65 36; www.cinemas-utopia.org; or pick up the free Utopia newspaper in any local tourist office eg St Rémy or Avignon. A personal favourite for an informal meal or drink is the Grand Café next door.

Lunch

For a gastronomic treat the Michelin starred Christian Étienne (04 90 86 16 50) rue Mons – atmospherically located in medieval buildings attached to the Palais des Papes - offers some good value lunch menus starting at 35€. The lovely first floor canopied terrace is perfect for a summer’s lunch. Otherwise Le Moutardier (04 90 85 34 76) in the place du Palais des Papes also has a nice terrace and set lunch menus from 28€. If terrace dining is not an issue we love the intimate and traditional Brunel et Mesclun (04 90 85 24 83) on nearby rue de la Balance. Also La Fourchette (04 90 85 20 93) and L’Isle Sonnante (04 90 82 56 01), both on rue Racine.

For something a bit more upscale try Le Cilantro, rue Porte de Laure (04 90 18 25 05) for imaginative fusion food in a fresh contemporary setting. We also like the look of newcomer Le Barréme (04 90 96 42 16) – a chic restaurant, bar and chambre d’hôte combined on rue du Barréme near place du Forum – weekday lunch menus start at 15€, children’s menu at 10€. And in case you should want to combine lunch with a hammam, head for couscousserie L’Entrevue (04 90 93 37 28) place Berbenova beside the Rhone. Really – we recommend it!

Market Days: Weds, Sat

Calendar: The biggest festivals are the Féria du Paques over Easter weekend, The Gardian festival in May, the summer festival late June/early July when the coveted Cocarde d’Or prize for ‘bullrunning’ is awarded, and the Féria du Riz in September. Arles also hosts an International Photography Show in July.

Arles tourist info (04 90 18 41 20; www.arlestourisme.com), bd des Lices Arénes: bullfighting, course camarguaise and other events - HYPERLINK "mailto:contact@arenes-arles.com" 08 91 70 03 70; www.arenes-arles.com