St Rémy de Provence

See the following pages for further details and lunch recommendations.

St Rémy is a thriving and picturesque market town with a strong artistic tradition. Van Gogh's time in St Rémy was his most prolific, and to this day there are over a hundred artists working in St Rémy and the surrounding area spanning all media and subjects. A range of museums and galleries cater to all tastes, but 'must sees' for all visitors include a visit to the Romanesque St Paul de Mausole asylum where Van Gogh spent his final year and the remains of the ancient Roman town of Glanum which dates back to 6BC, both just outside of the town centre. We also like the Musée Jouenne & Galerie de L’Estelle, bd Mirabeau with contemporary canvases and sculptures, and the Donation Mario Prassinos in the tiny Notre Dame de Pitié Chapelle near the Tourist Office which permanently houses works by 20th century artist Mario Prassinos, and exhibits a variety of contemporary art.

Van Gogh Trail: We highly recommend the Van Gogh trail (the Promenade dans L’Univers de Van Gogh) a self-guided trail which lasts about an hour and covers 21 key locations (in the countryside around St Rémy and in the town itself) which inspired Van Gogh paintings.

For details of this trail – and other cultural walks - consult the tourist office. Alternatively let us organise a Van Gogh morning for you with a private English speaking guide – includes the Van Gogh trail, the St Paul de Mausole asylum and the Musée Estrine.

Flânerie: If St Rémy is about art and culture, it is also about good food and wine, fragrances, flavours, beautiful objects, and everything encapsulated in the term art de vivre. The term flânerie could have been invented for a town like St Rémy: the closest translation in English is ‘idling’ or ‘aimless strolling’ but without the implied hint of disapproval!

In one brief circuit of the main boulevard you will find among the faded chalky façades countless cafés and restaurants, interior design shops and several luxury food stores: you can easily while away an afternoon just wandering around the shops smelling, tasting, prodding everything from hand-made soaps and candied fruit to artisanal chocolates and unctuous cheeses. Market days - Wednesday and Saturday - are especial convivial.

Among our favourite shops are Ebéne (interiors), Le Petit Duc (biscuits), Joël Durand (chocolates), La Maison de Truffe (truffle products). La Cave aux Fromages (pl Joseph Hilaire), and NM Deco tucked away on rue Hoche (interiors).

As you wander, keep an eye out for the Nostradamus Fountain at the intersection of Rue Nostradamus and Rue Carnot – the other famous son of St Rémy.

Lunch

Plenty of choice in St Rémy, so you shouldn’t go far wrong if you follow your nose and your instincts. We always seem to end up at the charming and dependable Bistrot des Alpilles (04 90 92 09 17), bd Mirabeau for lunch or dinner.

Otherwise the following on the main circuit are all good: Bistrot Découverte, La Terrasse au Soleil, Chez Gus for oysters and seafood (all of these have tables in the sun at lunchtime), Le Jardin de Frédéric, Le Marceau de Alain Assaud

L’Industrie, Le Provence / Origami Sushi at the contemporary Les Ateliers de L’Image hotel (nice terrace with Alpilles views for al fresco summer meals), Grain de Sel and Brasserie des Variétés which is a nice place to have a coffee and check your e-mails, as well as for an informal meal.

Also L’Aile ou La Cuisse, rue de la Commune, La Cuisine des Anges, rue du 8 mai 1945, and Le Mistral Gourmand, av Durand Maillane which has a good hearty local feel.

For something a bit more upscale try the Michelin starred Maison Jaune (04 90 92 56 14) on rue Carnot which has a nice first floor terrace.

The Maison du Village’s salon du thé in a pretty gravelled courtyard on rue 8 mai 1945 is also good for light lunches and tea in summer.

Parking: not easy in the centre of town especially in summer; generally easiest roadside on the north side of town (ie the Maillane side); otherwise, the car park by the tourist office (pick up signs for Les Baux / Maussane and you will see it on your left), or the car park in place de la République shortly before. Alternatively, a bit further from the centre, the car park just off the Maillane roundabout.

Market Days: Weds, Sat

St Rémy tourist info (04 90 92 05 22; www.saintremy-de-provence.com), place Jean Jaurés

9 – 12.30; 2 – 7 Mon – Sat; 10 – 12 Sundays/bank holidays – high summer opening hours