Les Baux
Les Baux Must-see fortified hill-top village with ruined château, after which bauxite was named.
On the plateau beyond the town’s cobbled streets, you can see vast old siege engines and battering rams and enjoy breathtaking views of the area, on a clear day down to the Camargue. We also love the Musée Yves Brayer and next to it the Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs.
Try to avoid visiting at weekends & bank holidays, especially in high summer, as it can be very crowded and parking challenging. At least try to arrive promptly in the morning.
Down the road at the start of the Val d’Enfer is the atmospheric Cathédrale d’Images where audio-visual shows are projected onto the walls of an old bauxite quarry.
Les Baux: 04 90 54 34 39; www.lesbaux-de-provence.com Cathédrale d’Images: 04 90 54 38 65; www.cathedrale-images.com
Routes & views: all the little roads running through the Alpilles are very picturesque, especially the back road (D27) which runs from the beginning of the Val d’Enfer – allegedly Dante’s inspiration - below Les Baux to Maillane, and the back road (D24 & D78) between Maussane and Eygaliéres.
Lunch
Most of our favourite Alpilles lunch spots are in the picturesque village of Eygaliéres. For a big treat, our personal favourite is the consistently excellent Michelin 2* Bistrot d’Eygaliéres ‘Chez Bru’ (04 90 90 60 34) though you might want to save this for a special dinner. For an informal lunch, Le Bistrot Aubergine (04 90 95 98 89), av Jean Jaurés is perfect. For summer lunches we also like Sous Les Micocouliers (04 90 95 94 53) off rue de la République, which has a nice big leafy terrace.
For relaxed, good quality meals our perennial favourites also include Le Bistrot des Alpilles in St Rémy, popular family-run bistro Le Bistrot du Paradou (04 90 54 32 70), av Vallée les Baux (between Maussane and Paradou), La Place (04 90 54 23 31) in Maussane’s central square and the restaurant at the Les Baux Golf Club (04 90 47 76 84) which has nice outside tables (with plenty of space for kids to run around safely).
If you want to combine a summer’s lunch with a swim, try Domaine de Valmouriane (04 90 92 44 62) a hotel restaurant on the D27 towards Les Baux. If you lunch here they are happy for you to make use of the pool and their extensive grounds. The same is unofficially true of the Hotel Les Ateliers de L’Image in St Rémy – though not if the hotel is at full capacity.
See also St Rémy lunch section towards back of book.
Market Days: Fontvieille (Mon, Fri), St Etienne du Grés (Mon), Eyguiéres (Tues, Fri) Paradou (Tues), St Rémy (Weds, Sat), Mouriés (Weds, Fri) Mollégés (Weds, Fri), Maillane* (Thurs), Maussane (Thurs), Aureille (Thurs), Graveson (Fri ), Eygaliéres (Fri), Eyragues (Fri), Mas Blanc des Alpilles (Sun), Châteaurenard (Sun)
Alpilles tourist info: www.alpilles.fr; www.saintremy-de-provence.com (and visit the various village tourist offices)
See also St Rémy ,which deserves its own section, towards back of book!