Alpilles in Provence
Dramatic mountainous limestone ridge, just south of Maillane, originally formed under the combined pressure of the Alps and the Pyrenees. The area is a mixture of wooded hills and steep craggy cliffs, with a rich and varied plant & herb life, including olives, cypresses, almond blossoms, rosemary, poppies and sunflowers.
Villages of the Alpilles Apart from St Rémy at the northern edge of the Alpilles, and Les Baux (see below), some of the most scenic include Eygaliéres, Maussane, Paradou, And a little further afield Fontvielle, Eyguiéres, Aureille and Mouriés.
Aside from the joys of wandering around village markets, walking in the countryside, enjoying leisurely meals à la terrasse, there are a few little gems scattered around the Alpilles: the unusual Jardin de l'Alchimiste at Mas de la Brune outside Eygaliéres which showcases the sorcerous power of plants and the medieval art of alchemy; the 12th century Chapelle St Sixte just beyond Eygaliéres; the 10th century Benedictine Abbaye de Montmajour on the far side of Fontvieille; Daudet’s windmill, just outside Fontvieille, inspiration for Alphonse Daudet’s Lettres de Mon Moulin and the Roman aqueduct and flour mill at Barbégal.
Lots of lively village festivals especially in summer, and also Course Camarguaise (more like ‘bull games’ as opposed to ‘bullfighting’) which is great fun to watch. Pick up a calendar of dates at the St Rémy tourist office or consult the local paper La Farandole.
Dégustation Driving around the Alpilles, you will see numerous signs for wine, olive oil, even honey and jams. There is a wide selection of both vignobles, where you can sample the local wine and buy a few bottles / cases if you fancy, and olive oil mills. Many places produce both wine and oil. The main centres for olive oil producing are Maussane and Mouriés.
For a map covering the main domaines, visit the tourist office in St Rémy. The most scenically located and our own favourites include Château Romanin (wine) off the D99 on the way to Eygaliéres, Château d’Estoublon (wine & olive oil) outside Fontvieille, Mas Ste Berthe (wine) and Mas de la Dame (wine) both below Les Baux, the only vineyard in the region that is owned and run by women, though in fact it takes its name from its 15thC owner – another female! Also, don't miss La Maison d'Anaïs in an old village house on Eygaliéres’ main street which offers a seductive selection of lavender honey, tapenades, black and white nougat, savon de Marseilles and fragrances.